Jazzmaster and Jaguar RI guitars can have their bridges literally fall apart during a gig.  In addition, an acceptable replacement should retain Leo Fender's original floating bridge, and facilitate a natural sustain and decay of the string.

I cut new saddles, using 2 strips of 'ironwood' measuring about 1" x 8".

The technical advantages of my original design include custom string spacing, light weight, custom radius adjustment, and a high saddle profile (which allows me to keep the actual bridge base close to the body - a low center of gravity).

You might question whether a wooden bridge sounds different than one made of steel or chromed pot metal or whatever - surprisingly, I found it sounds as good or better.

Cutting the 'ironwood' (some types can dull saw blades) was a chore, but filing the bridge pieces was easy.  I used the Stew-Mac Nut & Saddle-shaping Files, Set of 2.

I have since made bridge pieces out of Teflon, also.  Again, I was pleased with sound of this material also.  Some luthiers use Teflon for nuts, so maybe this is not a big surprise.

I think my takeaway is that the 'solution' to Jazzmaster/Jaguar bridge problems does not need to be heavy, over-engineered metal devices.  I prefer the floating bridge, but believe that it doesn't work as intended if the height-adjustable screws position the bridge too high off the body.  This makes the bridge 'top-heavy' and more likely to allow excessive string movement across the bridge saddles.

The JM/Jag bridge/tailpiece designs are not meant for dive-bombing.  They provide an expressive 'dip' in pitch.  My saddle designs hold the strings in place at the bridge and do not slide.  As long as your nut is working correctly, allowing the string to move across the top, tuning will return to pitch.

Check out the photos.  Copying my design for your personal, non-commercial use is fine.